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How a drab Soviet metropolis became Central Asiaâ€™s capital of cool
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Several cities around the globe have reinvented themselves in recent years, but none more successfully than Almaty.

Since the collapse of the USSR, Kazakhstanâ€™s largest city (population 2.2 million and growing) has evolved from a drab, run-of-the-mill Soviet metropolis into the urban star of Central Asia.
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Along the way, the city has developed one of the worldâ€™s most beautiful metro systems, grown into a thriving banking and finance center, complemented its vintage bazaars with luxury boutiques and modern shopping malls and reshaped its traditional gastronomy into a nouvelle cuisine thatâ€™s drawing raves from foodies around the world.

Almaty is also evolving into the cultural and artistic hub of Central Asia. Itâ€™s already got several world-class museums (including a â€œsecretâ€ underground collection that doesnâ€™t even have a name) and a dazzling new cultural center slated to open early next year.

â€œItâ€™s an incredibly livable city,â€ says long-time American resident Dennis Keen, a historic preservation advocate and founder of Walking Almaty.

â€œGreen and clean. You donâ€™t need a car. The public transit here is fantastic. And itâ€™s very much the center of contemporary art and dining in Central Asia.â€

Keen adds that whenever he tells someone back home that he lives in Kazakhstan, â€œBoratâ€ inevitably comes up. The movieâ€™s title character doesnâ€™t paint a very flattering portrait of the Central Asian nation. But nowadays one is tempted to think that if Borat visited Almaty now, he would say, â€œVery nice!â€

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